For the life of me, I haven’t been able to figure out why Fat back and Hog Jowls haven’t taken off in popularity in the last few years. With the onset of “Bacon Mania” (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacon_mania) and the resurgence of “discarded bits” and “offal-centric” cuisine, one would think that it’s a match made in porky heaven.
Lets start of with the basics. Unbeknownst to most people “bacon” can refer to different cuts of pork in different parts of the world. Essentially, the only thing that binds them together is the fact that the majority of things called bacon have been smoked and cured. Bacon, as we know it in the U.S. is typically made from smoked and cured pork belly. But quite a bit of other “bacons” are readily available here in the states.
Example 1: Fatback.
Fatback. Image Credit: Ryan Adams via http://www.chefs-resources.com
Fatback is smoked and cured adipose tissue (subcutaneous fat) from the back of the pig. As it’s name suggests it is mostly fat. Occasionally however, it can include some rind (skin) or meat (back bacon) in it as well.
Fatback is most commonly used as a flavor enhancer (drop it in a pot of peas, collards, etc.) But, I do know people that pan fry it and eat it like belly bacon. (If there’s rind attached, be prepared for it to be quite chewy.)
To be honest, I’m not a fan of the pan-fry fatback method. It produces a ton of grease, is extremely salty to the taste, and can burn quite quickly. I think fatback really shines as a “toss in the pot” ingredient. All that goodness that cooks out of the fat marrys well with something with a high starch content like a big boiler of dry butter beans. The beans will soak up that cooked-off grease and salt and give the beans a nice salty, smoky, pork flavor.
I flip flop my opinions for hog jowls. I think “toss in the pot” with them is a big waste. Here’s why:
Hog jowl is exactly what it sounds like. It’s the smoked cheeks of the pig. It’s often overlooked because most people are turned off at the thought of eating the cheeks of an animal. (I usually laugh at people like this every time they eat a hot dog or a chicken nugget. I’ll let you Google that and find out why.) I think a lot of it has to do with the mental picture of someone slicing a hunk off of the head of an animal and making you eat it. Most Americans don’t want to know where their meat comes from, and don’t like to think about the fact that the meat they eat used to be part of an animal. But at some point, “animal” turns to “meat” and winds up on a grocery store shelf in a nice vacuum sealed package. Then we’re okay with it.
So, just for those squeamish people, here’s a picture of uncooked hog jowl.
Smoked Hog Jowl. courtesy: http://www.earthydelightsblog.com
Holy crap! It looks like bacon! Amazing! It’s not a horror show after all!
Now that the hard part is over, lets get down to business.
I’ll just come out and say it. Hog jowls make the best damned bacon you’ve ever tasted. It’s thick, highly smoked, and moderately salty. The outside is crunchy, the inside is chewy and there’s just enough fat to make it have that luscious bacon flavor that drives people nuts.
I cook it just like I cook my belly bacon. In the oven.
Single layer it on a sheet pan, pop it in a 400 degree oven, and turn it every 10 minutes until done. It’s magical. (Some folks brush a little oil on the top of the jowl before putting it in the oven the first time. I’ve never tried it. It’s a little bit of “gilding the lily” for me. But they swear it helps the “outside crunchy/inside soft” texture.)
After it’s done, this is what you get:
Lambert’s Cafe Hog Jowls – courtesy: http://www.gypsynester.com
Looks awesome, right? It is. I’ve had that exact same meal at Lambert’s Cafe in Foley Alabama. It was bacon perfection.
Boiling this stuff absolutely kills it’s potential. I don’t boil hog jowl for the same reason that I don’t boil belly bacon. If you boil it, you’re ruining a great piece of meat. If you just want to add flavor to a boil, use fatback. You’ll get a lot more flavor “boiled out” and you won’t ruin the crunchy-chewy goodness that is jowl meat.
On a parting note, both fatback and hog jowl are a great way to keep moisture in roasted poultry or game birds. Spread slices of either across the top of the bird before slow roasting, and the fat will baste the bird as they both cook.
I hope you’ve enjoyed our look at a couple of oft neglected southern favorites.
Till we meet again.
TST
The Southern Table 
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I’ve cured and dry hung pork jowl numerous times. I am itching to try a dry cured, peppered and smoked southern style hog jowl bacon. I can’t find what the traditional curing ingredients might be anywhere (beyond the basic salt, sugar, curing salt). Any thoughts?
Pink salt from a butcher that has potassium nitrite in it is a botulism preventer.
Thanks it very informative.
I just bought a pound or so of jowl bacon today and was looking around. You’re making me glad I got it!!
Glad to be of service!
Wow, I just had my first fried hog jowls (probably not really my first, but first as an adult) at the very same Lambert’s. I’ve only used it for seasoning and have seen it on the menu in Sikeston many times. But tonight in Foley, I decided to try it. It’s one of the cheapest items on the menu. When it arrived, I was like, “Where have you been all my life, giant pile-o-bacon?” After leaving, I began researching it for my own smoker goals and I find your page via Google. I saw the pic almost of my very own plate. Mine only had two sides, white beans and greens. You also have green beans. Too funny. I do think I will seek out some actual raw jowls to cure and smoke myself.
I think there is a stigma both culinary and racial/culturally.
Absolutely.
pork belly tough to find in the routine USA markets (I was SURE Walmart would have it). A very “economical” (read $8 for a big slab) at Costco in the UK. Pork belly sous vide for 24 hrs with some type of marinade (pick your poison) and then chilled, compressed and seared before serving is as close to heaven as I may get. Now about to try the same treatment of jowl. No doubt it will be great…just a little smaller hunks to work with. Both good with a slightly acerbic garnish (kiwi salsa, cold pickled apple and red onion slices) or a sauce of apple and onion (wanded). Helps cut the richness of the belly. Gotta work for the jowl as well. If anyone wants sous vide tips, leave a request.
I just came into about 100 lbs. Of pig jawl. I tried pan fry init but takes awhile. Was very tatesty though. Any other ways you suggest.
I ‘ve read your article. I too love pork.- all cuts!
I just bought a 6 lb whole smoked jowl. I have to be honest,I don’t have any idea of how to tackle it. It’s bone in and already smoked. Can I braise it as I would a pork belly? From what I’ve been reading many people just cut off the rind a cut their jowls but mine has a bone. What is the best way to prepare this beast? I m very excited but don’t want to disappoint my husband and embarrass my self..last nite I made the mistake of serving my beef, pork loving husband a crazy ground chicken burger recipe that Rachael Ray made I followed the recipe to the letter and it was horrible. My husband told me to stick with old repetoir of dishes …I digress, ..any way ,I have this huge jowl and don’t have the faintess idea of how to tackle the beast. Help!..Michele Jawitz. Southwest Florida( Previously a New Englander)
I always cooked it in my black-eyed peas at new years. This year I could not find it any where in Southern California at new years. I was very disappointment at what they seemed to have as a substitute (Sliced Pork Jowl Bacon).